Pure Chardonnay elegance from Meursault domaine’s 2018s
“We can say that we produced wines where the flavours are very pure, elegant with an impressive complexity,” Jean-Pierre Latour told us of his latest collection. “In the mouth there’s precision, and the expression of the different terroirs is totally respected. In 2018, you will have always the feeling of the energy coming from the sun but never the idea of a warm vintage. The wines have the right balance.”
The season itself was a pretty balance affair: a wet, cool start swinging to a warmer harvest. Winter was wet, a cold March retarded growth and hence April saw no frost problems. Vegetative growth went well in May, when more storms came. Flowering began in late May/early June, and was completed in comfortable conditions. Then came a four-day heatwave in early August, before heavy rain fell in the middle of the month to get things back on track. Picking eventually took place in lovely weather.
“In addition, it is really easy to understand and to appreciate this vintage,” Jean-Pierre concludes.
Dry and mellow, Domaine Latour-Giraud’s Bourgogne Blanc is harvested very close to the Meursault appellation. It shows all the suppleness, delicate texture and slight nuttiness for which Meursault is famed.
Whiffs of matchstick and petrol sits atop the aromas of white-fleshed fruit and soft citrus. The racy and very intense flavors possess excellent volume while displaying fine length on the refreshing finish. This is an excellent Bourgogne that would make a terrific house white.88 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound
The famous 16-hectare Narvaux climat is situated in the highest vineyards of the village, at the tip of the top premiers crus. Grown on thin, poor soil and substrata (multiple layers of lava), the wine takes the best features of the soil. The wine has fantastic finesse and aromatic complexity, while the palate has abundant elegance, complexity and length.
The cool essence of spiced pear is complemented by notes of citrus, mineral reduction and lavender. As is usually the case there is more evident minerality to the intense and delicious flavors that are not quite as dense but they’re both finer and more precise on the saline, dry and youthfully austere finale. Lovely.89-91 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound
The vineyards of Genevrières total 16 hectares in the heart of the Meursault premiers crus, south of the village. The name of the appellation comes from the juniper trees that used to grow there. Domaine Latour-Giraud is the most important owner of this fabulous premier cru, with 2.5Ha. Along with Perrières, this would be considered by most to be Meursault’s top premier cru. The wines have exquisite structure. Round, deep and smooth, it also has great elegance, finesse and raciness.
Smoky, cool and elegant aromas are composed primarily of various white orchard fruit, acacia blossom, citrus rind, wood and a hint of exotic tea. The racy, intense and admirably concentrated flavors possess very good volume as well as an appealing minerality that adds a sense of lift to the sneaky long, balanced and firm finale. This too is lovely and a wine that will need at least a few years of cellaring as it’s presently fairly tightly wound.92 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound
The Perrières appellation is spread over 13 hectares and is divided into four parts between Blagny and Charmes. Along with Genevrières, it is the finest of the Meursault premiers crus. Its name comes from an old underground quarry which used to provide stones for building the village itself. Domaine Latour-Giraud owns a little plot of 14 ares, which produces a sumptuous, brilliant and complex wine with almond nuances.
An even more complex nose amalgamates notes of mineral reduction, green apple, pear liqueur, white flowers and a variety of citrus elements. The strikingly textured, intense and unusually rich flavors possess so much minerality that the mouthfeel is akin to rolling a small pebble on the palate, all wrapped in a harmonious and wonderfully long finale. This needs to develop more depth but that is typical for young Perrières.93 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound