“As I wrote last year, the style at this important 19-hectare domaine is pure and understated, minimal wood influence meaning that it is the grapes — and the climats that shape them — that are front and centre at all times, and positive evolution is taking place.” So wrote Wine Advocate’s Burgundy specialist William Kelley following his tasting of the Domaine Matrot ‘18s.

And that’s what you’d want isn’t it? A light shone pure and unadorned on the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes growing in some of the planet’s most rare and revered dirt.

“The 2018 vintage has turned out very well,” continued Kelley, “producing elegant and nicely balanced wines, and some 2017s, revisited from bottle, surpassed my high expectations formed last year.”

As luck would have it, we have wines from sisters Elsa and Adèle issuing from both of these fine vintages.

2018 Matrot Bourgogne Blanc $54

Touches of straw, petrol and citrus add breadth to the notes of poached pear. The sleek, intense and delicious middle weight flavors possess a lovely sense of underlying tension. This isn’t especially complex but I very much like the clean, dry and wonderfully refreshing finish. Worth a look as this is well-made in the context of the genre.

87 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound

2018 Matrot Meursault $141

From 12 plots, a cuvée ronde across the appellation. To bottle next week. Light yellow with faint green tints. High class nose, picked at the right time. Lovely gracious rounded fruit, very classic, totally white fruit, some pears, ripeness perfectly judged. A classic.

89-92 points. Jasper Morris – Inside Burgundy

2018 Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières $273

Clear bright colour. Still in wood. Nose takes some teasing out but when it comes it is really classy with all the weight it needs. And the fresh tingle at the back. Stones lie buried in the weight of fleshy white fruit. Very good indeed.

93-96 points. Jasper Morris – Inside Burgundy

2018 Matrot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes $273

Their vines sit on a limestone bench which suffers from drought and the vines tend to lose leaves early. So picked first. It was still in barrel but had been moved to a cooler cellar. Fresh primrose colour, some class to the nose. Then a powerful hit of yellow fruit, so perhaps not quite the same natural balance as some, and a slightly dry finish. But really interesting fruit quality. Very long finish.

91-95 points. Jasper Morris – Inside Burgundy

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