Purity and precision from “Europe’s Best Vineyard”

A great vintage, Austria’s no. 1 white-wine region and Europe’s Best Vineyard – who could ask for more?

These terraced slopes over the Danube are the envy of Riesling growers the world over. Bathed in sunshine on autumn afternoons, cooled dramatically by evening air descending from the woods or sucked up through the valley, the vines in these ancient rocky soils lead a charmed life.

The Wachau is Austria’s premier white-wine growing region, and Domäne Wachau is its most important producer. Grapes for the Riesling Terrassen Federspiel are hand-harvested from various small terraced plots, the lion’s share coming from the A-list addresses of Spitz, Dürnstein and Weissenkirchen.

This is archetypal Wachau: purity and presence, deep ripeness paired with long-running, soothing acidity. And 2019 yielded a wine where the aromatic charm is dialled up, hints of jasmine and mango joining the juicy stone fruits.

The balance of substance and vaporous, zesty energy is spot-on.

2019 Domäne Wachau Riesling Terrassen Federspiel $32

Spicy and fruity with mineral, stone and steel. Dried lime and lemon zest. Medium-bodied and zesty and fruity at the end. Gorgeous and vibrant. Drink now. Screw cap.

92 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com

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