2016 Moric Serious Wine From A Gorgeous Place

The defiant label almost says it all – spells it out in black and white, in fact. A little disagreement between Moric maverick Roland Velich and Austrian wine officialdom over typicity at play here. What the label doesn’t quite say is that the wine is as gorgeous as it is serious. Perhaps it was the fact you could close your eyes and picture yourself in Chablis, sampling its most treasured fruits, that put the lawmakers offside. This is the wine labelled in previous years as Sankt Georgen, grown on a limestone parcel near the village of Eisenstadt in the southern portion of the Leitha Mountains.. The nose has incredible precision and clarity: yellow flowers, lemon, grapefruit and intense limestone minerality. The palate continues in the same vein with thrilling tension, energy and length, as well as lip-smacking limey extract. Delicious. – Ed Merrison, CellarHand