2017 Bründlmayer Riesling Steinmassel

The Riesling vines of the Steinmassl vineyard grow on primary rock with mica-schist. This geological formation of Austria’s southern forest district possesses as classic and traditional a soil type as one is likely to find anywhere Kamptal, Kremstal or Wachau. The vines are partially trained in the Lyre-system. The meagre, stony soil provides small berries with concentrated flavour. As far as Riesling is concerned, an important part of the flavour is stored in the grape skins and is set free only by extremely slow pressing of up to 8 hours’ duration or prolonged skin contact overnight. Fermentation is done in stainless steel and maturation is completed on 5 to 10% of the lees. Alcohols 12.5%; total acidity: 7.9g/L; residual sugar: dry. The Steinmassl, formerly understandably categorized as Reserve, offers a brilliant opening act: an elegantly drawn blend of gooseberry and red peach, lively and already multi-layered with a robust base note that continues on the palate with crystal clear, pale fruit nuances. Exhilarating, yet also simultaneously deep; impressive substance pairs with a fine, racy play of acid. Long finish and plenty of potential for further development. Unquestionably the best Steinmassl ever. – Andreas Wickhoff MW