Smoky and mysterious in the nose, this is the still point in the centre of the storm. Wonderful harmony on the substantial yet graceful palate, then an exciting touch of “bitterness” climbs out of the depths at the very long, austerely mineral finish. A hint of butterscotch develops. Bottled after almost two years in cask on the lees. Drink or hold.
95 points. Nick Stock, jamessuckling.com
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