2023 Gunderloch Hipping Riesling Grosses Gewächs

Gunderloch owns 4 hectares of the Hipping grand cru. The site is located in an exposed position on the Roter Hang where the southeast and south-facing slopes meet. Its position on the ‘Rotliegend’ formation between Pettenthal and Ölberg is significant, and unites several outstanding pre-conditions for vines. The warmth of a broad lake-like section of the Rhine and intense sun exposure, a wind-protected site and the very weathered red slate of the steep slope allow small Riesling bunches of grapes to develop intense aromas and flavours.  The family’s prime parcel in Hipping is protected by a row of terraces and the steep flank of the Pettenthal. Hipping tends to yield wines of incredibly expressive exotic fruit and significantly creamy texture.

The 2023 Riesling Niersteiner Hipping Grosses Gewächs was made with whole berries in the ferment rather than prolonged pre-fermentation skin contact. It opens with stone dust, crushed lemon balm, a touch of flinty reduction and an enticing blend of red apple and juicy tangerine, even with a touch of creaminess. That creaminess is also immediate on the palate, pervaded by fine freshness. There’s real concentration and drive here, tingling with lemon brightness and savory red stone. Beautiful, serene and slender, it has lovely substance and a lasting, salty finish (Bone-dry). 95 points. Anne Krebiehl, Vinous Media Aug 2024