The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos once again asserts itself as the most powerful and commanding wine in Michel’s portfolio this year. It unfurls from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon confit, apricot and Mirabelle plum, interwoven with notes of freshly baked bread and beeswax. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy yet controlled, it displays considerable reserves of structuring extract that lend energy to its muscular, vinous core. Uniting amplitude with incisiveness, it culminates in a long, persistent finish. 94+ points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate 2026