2021 Bründlmayer Riesling ‘Heiligenstein Alte Reben’

The mighty Heiligenstein is one of the most breathtaking vineyard sites on planet earth. It’s made up of a multitude of ancient terraces & slopes and its grandeur dominates the landscape.  The complex tapestry of soils and aspect mean the vineyard is effectively split into 3 designated ‘portions’ with their own unique microclimates, with the Bründlmayer family farming some 9ha of south facing vines that have been bred through cloning and layering and now range from 50-75 years old.

This is a monumental expression of Heiligenstein and the famed Falstaff magazine (Austria’s preeminent wine publication) recently awarded the 2021 Heiligenstein Alte Reben Riesling the gong of best single vineyard Riesling from the Kamptal & bestowing 99 points upon it, with chief of judges Peter Moser commenting that Bründlmayer had once more committed an ‘icon for the Austrian wine scene’ to the annals of time.

“Pure, juvenile, restrained yet intense first impression, a multifaceted bouquet featuring fresh citrus peel, fresh stone (white peaches) and pome fruit, a hint of white flowers, hay, green tealeaf and yeasty spice; very fresh and very dry before the palate reveals the fruit tones mentioned before; this wine is vigorous though fine and precise, densely structured and perfectly balanced not by residual sugar but by its sugar free extract, this Riesling is no power pack nor a palate pleaser but a natural authority as it remains full of firm tension until the final marked by again hints of bright fruit, spice and mineral almost salty impressions: an outstanding vintage from the heart of the Heiligenstein, a wine with an incredible lifespan ahead.” Weingut Bründlmayer

The first impression of this wine makes you feel like you have reached the eye of the dry riesling hurricane, then as the wine flows over your palate the winds start whipping around you and the energy level goes up and up. Then the waves crash on the stony shoreline that faces the storm. In spite of all of this, it remains sleek and refined with notes of oolong tea and savory! From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. 97 Points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com