Bründlmayer wins double as key Grüner rolls
We’ve just rolled vintage onto the 2019 rendition of the Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Terrassen (“So subtle and complex,” says Stuart Pigott), while Bründlmayer just won trophies in both the Riesling and Grüner categories of the GOURMETWELTEN Rieden Cup 2020 for ’16 Heiligenstein and ’17Lamm respectively. Add in fab fizz and rosé, and everyone’s a winner with this current range!
SPARKLING
NV Bründlmayer Sekt $75
Traditional-method sparkling blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Grüner Veltliner. The grapes are selected in September, when acidity and maturity have reached their perfect point for the base wine for our sparkling production. These grapes are sourced from different chalky parcels in our vineyards, which lends the wine freshness and while most of the sites are southeast-facing slopes, the fruit also receives warmth.
The harvested grapes are transported in small cases directly into the cellar, where they are very gently and carefully pressed. Only the heart of the must is used for sparkling production. It ferments in stainless steel where it also undergoes malolactic fermentation before being racked into used 300-litre (or 2500-litre) Austrian oak barrels with about 10% of the lees.
In the following year, the base wine is bottled together with some sugar and yeast for the secondary fermentation. It gets 18 months yeast contact before the process of remuage. During the month-long process of remuage the sediment that forms during secondary fermentation is manoeuvred into the neck of the bottle and up against the cork through riddling from time to time by hand.
Nuances of white bread, brioche and stewed apricot with generous fruit presence – and charm as well; considerable body, firm and open-hearted, very round and juicy, smooth yellow fruitiness, tingling and balanced, not too sweet, very beautiful feel. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
ROSÉ
2018 Bründlmayer Zweigelt Rosé $32
Most of the Zweigelt Rosé comes from grapes harvested in a state of middle ripeness, gently pressed like white wine, a smaller part is from highest quality Zweigelt grapes where we just use the must flowing out of the press before the pressing even starts. After fermentaion in steel tank the wine undergoes partly or complete malo-lactic fermentation (depending on the year).
It is minty lemon rather than red fruit that makes for a very refreshing nose here. The palate is light, juicy and easy, but above all very fresh with lemon all the way to the finish.
89 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Wine Enthusiast
GRÜNER VELTLINER
2019 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Terrassen $40
This Grüner Veltliner is a blend of wines sourced from different terraced vineyards at altitudes of 260m to 380m. The elevated terraces consist of stonier soils (schisted granite). The vines there show aromatic expression, good acidity, elegant stone fruit and lots of minerals. The lower-sited terraces mostly of layered fertile loess show more body and ripeness. By combining those two characteristics Bründlmayer produces a classic Grüner Veltliner with both finesse and a certain vigour. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
This seems a strong vintage for this wine. Ripe apple, honey, a faint dried mango richness, dusting of white pepper and breakfast radish spice. Good intensity of flavour, fresh but quite weighty, savoury flavours in the mix too, and lovely fine chalk dust texture throughout. Finish is long. A banger.
94 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
2017 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Loiserberg $54
This wine derives from a vineyard on the Loiserberg wherein one also finds the site Berg Vogelsang. The difference is that the Grüner Veltliner from Loiserberg grows on a south to southeast facing slope, which is less exposed to the winds. The soil stems from primary rock geologically defined as zoisite-amphibolite, which is decomposing granite consisting of gneiss, mica-schist, and some clay and loess.
As with the Berg Vogelsang, the grapes are harvested when they are physiologically ripe at the end of October. The wine is fermented at a moderate 15 to 20°C before being racked into large wooden casks for further maturing. Actually, the only difference from Berg Vogelsang is the exposition with slightly higher soil fertility and a marginally warmer, more protected microclimate. Alcohol: 12.5%; RS: dry; total acidity: 6g/L. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
Lots of dried-herb and lentil character on the nose. At once powerful and elegant, this is a really sophisticated 2017 Grüner Veltliner that’s more open than many of the top wines of the vintage. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
94 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
2010 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Loiserberg Reserve $97
2010 was the year when Willi Bründlmayer decided to elevate the best parcels of the Loiserberg to make the most of its Erste Lage (top-flight) classification. The wine was fermented at a moderate 15 to 20°C before being racked into large wooden casks for further maturing. It is a dry wine with 13% alcohol and 5g/L acidity.
It shows enchanting flavour of honey, flowers and ripe stone-fruit, a lot of finesse, very complex, already in its youth, juicy and powerful, though its delicate structure and noble understatement prevail. This is an attractive performance of what was then a new single-vineyard selection. Impressive fruit, length and balance.
2016 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Ried Spiegel $121
The name of the vineyard “Spiegel” (mirror) is said to derive from Latin “spectaculum”(look-out). In the ancient times of the “Limes”, the Romans probably used the spot to observe the Germanic tribes to the north of the Danube. However, still up to now most people think that the name is linked to the convex vaulting of the 300m hill, a kind of “mirror” to the sky. The vineyards occupy an elongated ridge in the south of Langenlois. The deep, calcareous soils here are derived from a thick underlying layer of loess with a balanced mineral composition. Occasional thin layers of sandy gravels and palaeosols indicate different climatic phases during the deposition of the loess.
This vineyard bears old Grüner Veltliner vines that produce wines with a unique weight, concentration, and extract sweetness. Vincent Bründlmayer took over this Grüner Veltliner vineyard from his family in 2010 and produced his first “Vincents Spiegel” in 2011.
Immediately after whole cluster pressing, the must enters on the one hand wooden barrels (Manhartsberg oak, acacia and French barrique) and on the other hand a stainless steel tank (30% of the blend). After fermentation, the wine is stirred weekly on its lees weekly over three months. Finally, the casks were racked into one big wooden barrel for further maturation. Alcohol 12.5%; total acidity: 6.3g/L; residual sugar: dry. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
A well structured yet cool and rather sleek Grüner Veltliner with a rather closed nose, but very good potential if you can be patient. Long, firm and texturally complex finish. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2019.
93 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
2017 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm $141
The Lamm vineyard has a soil of chalky clay and loess on siltstone. It is a south-facing slope bordering the east of the “Heiligenstein” – one of the warmest sites in our wine growing area.
Grapes from this site reach a high degree of ripeness and concentration, which brings a generous expression more generally associated with Burgundy varieties. “Lamm” is the quintessence of a monumental Grüner Veltliner; it abandons the lightness and prickle that Grüner Veltliner usually stands for.
Physiologically ripe and botrytis-free grapes were harvested in small cases at the end of November at low temperatures and transported as fast as possible into the winery. Grapes are handled carefully without the use of pumps, then slowly and gently pressed to allow some skin contact yet avoiding the transfer of too harsh tannins or cloudy residues into the must.
The must ferments in 2- to 3-year-old 300-litre Austrian oak (and partly new acacia) casks. After fermentation the wine is racked into 2500-litre oak or acacia barrels, together with 5-10% of the lees where it remains until bottling at the end of August of the following year. Alcohol 13%; RS dry; total acidity 6.9g/L.
What a spectrum of aromas, from walnut leaf and ginger to lime and heirloom apple varieties. Even with all its youthful yeasty restraint, crystal clear and bracing. Oak is hardly perceptible this time. Opens beautifully in the glass, sweetly extracted and packing a punch. Despite all the concentration, defined by finesse. Already revealing many layers and even a touch of pineapple on the long aftertaste. Tremendous potential for many years of bottle maturation. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
Still slightly funky from long lees contact, this is very deep and complex with an entire universe of herbal and vegetal aromas. Then, an almost endless, cool finish of radical minerality. Made from organically grown grapes. Long aging potential. Drink or hold.
97 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
RIESLING
2017 Bründlmayer Riesling Kamptal Terrassen $43
This Riesling is a blend of wines sourced from different terraced (therefore high-quality) vineyards. The elevated terraces consist of stonier soils that bring fruit driven wines with mineral nuances and good aging potential. The vines from lower-sited terraces grow partly on layered fertile loess and bring earlier maturing wines that are very expressive in their youth.
By combining those two characteristics, Willi Bründlmayer obtains a Riesling that shows both finesse and a certain vigour. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
Delicate peach and nectarine aromas, plus some positive, yeasty character. Medium-bodied with lively acidity, but no rough edges at the long, clean finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now. Screw cap.
90 points. James Suckling, jamessuckling.com
2016 Bründlmayer Riesling Kamptal Terrassen $43
One of those fresh and vivacious expressions of Riesling, brisk and crisp, riding on almost lightly fizzy acidity, gentle sweetness but not a sweet wine, a touch of stony-mineral character to finish. Bistro wine extraordinaire! It’s a ripper drink, not overtly complex but definitely overtly drinkable.
93 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2017 Bründlmayer Riesling Ried Steinmassl $64
The Riesling vines of the Steinmassl vineyard grow on primary rock with mica-schist. This geological formation of Austria’s southern forest district possesses as classic and traditional a soil type as one is likely to find anywhere Kamptal, Kremstal or Wachau. The vines are partially trained in the lyre-system. The meagre, stony soil provides small berries with concentrated flavour. As far as Riesling is concerned, an important part of the flavour is stored in the grape skins and is set free only by extremely slow pressing of up to 8 hours’ duration or prolonged skin contact overnight. Fermentation is done in stainless steel and maturation is completed on 5 to 10% of the lees. Alcohols 12.5%; RS: dry; total acidity: 7.9g/L. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
A totally original dry Riesling form the Danube valley that has a suave and supple feel on the front palate. Then, the firmness from the rocky soil comes through on the cool, lemony finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
94 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
2017 Bründlmayer Riesling Ried Heiligenstein Lyra $132
The Bründlmayer family owns 12 hectares right in the centre of the Zöbinger Heiligenstein. 10.5 hectares are planted with Riesling, the remainder for experimental purposes with Cabernet (mostly Cabernet Franc). From a geological point of view Heiligenstein is not only the oldest but probably also the most interesting on our estate: the soil consists of approximately 270 million-year-old Permian desert sandstone. The sediments contain volcanic inclusions and carbonised remains of primeval vegetation. The uniqueness of this soil, its perfect gradient and position (SW to SE in a climatic borderland) provide ideal conditions for growing outstanding wines. During the day warm winds (often due to the effects of the Pannonian climate) climb the site, whereas by nightfall cool gusts from the north start blowing through the Kamp Valley and bring forward the aromatic expression of the grapes.
About 20% of our Heiligenstein vineyards are trained in a lyre trellis system. The vine bifurcates in a way that the branches seem to reach to the heavens like sun-worshippers. This method doubles canopy exposure and favours aeration which improves photosynthesis and prevents dreaded fungus diseases. Yields are restricted by rigorous thinning and although harvest started late only healthy berries without botrytis were brought in. These techniques result in increasing the quality of grapes to show a similar intensity as those deriving from old vines.
We ferment the must in stainless steel at a temperature of 15 to 20° C. After fermentation the wine matures on the lees till bottling in summer. Alcohol 13%; RS: dry; total acidity: 7.7g/L. – Andreas Wickhoff MW, Bründlmayer
The 2017 Riesling Ried Heiligenstein 1ÖTW Lyra is super fine and floral on the highly elegant, balanced nose. Pure but intense and very fine on the palate, this is a highly elegant, complex and very persistent Heiligenstein with remarkable tension, length and salinity. A gorgeous wine and probably one of the finest Austrian Rieslings of the 2017 vintage.
96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
2016 Bründlmayer Riesling Ried Heiligenstein Lyra $111
The fruitiest of Bründlmayer’s 2016 single-vineyard dry Rieslings with a slew of perfectly ripe peach. However, this is still a properly dry wine and it has a very serious structure. The finish is long, intense and bold, but with a wealth of refreshing minerality. Drink now and for many years to come.
96 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
2008 Bründlmayer Riesling Ried Heiligenstein Lyra $111
Medium green-yellow. Inviting bouquet of peach, greengage plum, honey and dried apricot over a subtle background of smoky flint. Intense and concentrated peach and pineapple are wrapped in a transparent veil of sweetness and elegantly suspended by a firm acid spine. Finishes with lingering hints of papaya and pineapple. Drink 2011 to 2023.
92 points. Peter Moser, Vinous Media November 2009