2019 Pinot Noir from Joe & Lou’s ’86-planted Tamar Valley vines

A short but sweet news item this – “just” a vintage roll, but one that pertains to a dearly beloved Pinot Noir. It’s the estate wine from Lou and Joe Holyman and their 1986-planted vines on the estate vineyard in Gravelly Beach in Tassie’s Tamar Valley.

Joe’s Pinot is well known as a keeper (apt, really, as Joe was famously once a ‘keeper too – of wickets, that is). But as always with the wines bearing the family name, the sheer quality of the fruit and inherent depth are blindingly obvious at this early stage.

2019 Holyman Pinot Noir $57

Handpicked and sorted, this 100% estate-grown fruit comes from vines planted in 1986. Some 60% of the fruit goes into the fermenter as whole bunches. 30% of the Holyman Pinot Noir is aged in new French oak to bring complex smoky elements complementing the vibrant red berries and chalky tannins. No fining or filtration and minimal sulphur.

Clean and frank nose of red and blue flowers with plum, cherry and a suggestion of blackberry. Subtle complexity on closer inspection; cake spices, a touch of cedar, dried herbs and gravelly earth tones. The entry is fairly firm and reserved. It’s elegant and chiselled on the palate, channelling the red-to-black fruits of the nose. There are pleasing savoury nuances of graphite and liquorice on the finish, which is focused and long with a dab of black-cherry fruit. The acidity doesn’t bite but rather guides its length, with a build-up of firm, chalky tannins. Young and fine Pinot Noir. Just 12% alcohol.

Ed Merrison, CellarHand

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