2022 Onannon Tuerong ‘Robinson’ Vineyard Chardonnay

A 35-year-old vineyard that several producers on the Peninsula source quality fruit from. I have had a connection with the vineyard for 20 years now, both at Coldstream Hills in the early 2000’s and then at Stonier. We are lucky enough to have access to three separate blocks of Chardonnay, planted to i10 and P58. A warmer site than all our other sites. Each block is hand-picked and pressed straight to barrel. 30 percent new French oak and a portion fermented in 1000L stainless steel eggs. 50 percent MLF. Six barrels produced – Will Byron, Onannon

When it comes to Chardonnay, for these unassuming rockstars, flavour is king. They are looking for fruit in the grapefruit/pear spectrum when picking. Always pressed straight to barrel/puncheon, no added acid, loads of lees contact and 100% MLF. They boys never fine and phenolics is ok by them.

 This is all the things that Will likes about Chardonnay. He likes good oak, he likes good flavour. It’s the genisis of what became his style of Chardonnay. By oxidating this, he knocked a little bit of the primary fruit off it – and its left with some of those wonderful secondary flavours and botanicals. The richness, the full bodiness all gives the wine beautfiful textures – which has come from pure experimentation in an expression that Will loves working with best!

Plenty of struck match, ginger snap biscuits, cardamom, curry leaf, aniseed, so much spice, pink grapefruit and stonefruit, lots of flinty texture, a buttery white mint chocolate richness, and a very long grippy finish. This is so complex and engaging. Caramel with citrus bite. So lovely. 95 points. Gary Walsh, Wine Front Jan 2024